Just like all over the world Peru being a very religious, like many Latin American countries, has been celebrating the holy week and boy has there been a turn out.  Downtown (Cercado) Lima was literally packed with thousands of devote (at least during the religious holidays, that is) Catholics who flooded the streets on Good Friday to take part in the tradition of visiting seven churches, a holiday that commemorates the crucifixion of Jesus Christ, including his death at Calvary.  Here are just a few of the photos that were taken yesterday I traveled with Zdenka to visit some of these churches. 

So a few weeks ago a bunch of my co-workers, Ryan, and I headed out to the famous Plaza San Martin in downtown Lima to produce a small film about the highly underrated nightclubs.  I personally had no clue that there even existed nightclubs in the Plaza, aside from the well known bars and pubs.  Some of the bars turned out to be really cool while others were nothing more than average dark and crammed meat markets. I was in-charge of photos that night and with the constant flow of free drinks that I received while working I can honestly say that the quality began to take a downward spiral fast.  The video was taken by The Break's very own videographer, Carlos who did an excellent job putting the film together. 


Noches en el centro de Lima from The Break on Vimeo.

Today was a very full day with the trip to the Peruvian immigration office in Breña (conveniently located a block from Zdenka's parents house) to pick up our new Peruvian passports, followed by a trip to downtown Lima to pick up our OFFICIALLY translated marriage certificate (so much paperwork for a K3 visa!).  Our last stopped was not a mandatory one but one of personal interest, as we both decided to head over to the Policlinica Chincha so Zdenka could get another ultrasound.

The Clinic is one of many satellite hospitals run by EsSalud and is considered one of the more popular ones to visit.  Unfortunately due to its small size and the large number of patients that attend there the wait can be dreadful, luckily Zdenka had befriended the ultrasound technician during our first visit and so we were attended rather quickly (just another example that "who you know" matters in Peru).

The ultrasound office was a small one which consisted of a wooden desk, the huge ultrasound machine, the patient bed, and several windows draped with blue curtains.  The room was dark with the lights off so as to help the technician (a very pleasant middle aged woman) view the ultrasound machine.  Zdenka lied on the table and exposed her fairly small belly which was quickly greased up with some clear petroleum based gel.  Unlike other visits it did not take long for the technician to locate Rosemary resting in an upward position with her feet pointing towards the cervix opening.  We were informed that if the baby did not move from her current position before the birthing that a Cesarean would have to be performed.  The whole visit only last about 15 minutes but it was wonderful to see my baby again.  Definitely looking forward to the day when I can hold her in my arms!



My little baby!

Last Saturday I had agreed to help paint one of the bathrooms at Zdenka's parents home in Breña (a task which turned out to be more trivial than I had anticipated).  The day was perfect, the sun was out and the sky was clear as far as the eye could see.  I took a colectivo as I normally do however lately it has been fairly difficult to find many due in part to the increase in police activity (these are either official and therefore legal or they are the more common batida which is illegal since the police are only looking for an excuse to harass and extort citizens, tis the season!).

Arriving at Plaza Grau in downtown Lima I saw several guys performing some pretty amazing displays of acrobatics in front of stopped vehicles.  These were just a few of many street performers that take to the city streets in order to earn a living or often just some extra pocket change.  I asked them if they would mind me taking a few photos and they agreed, and as a sign of good faith I donated S/. 2.

Here is a photo that was taken last Sunday while Zdenka and I were having a late breakfast at some cafe in the famous Plaza San Martin, located in the heart of Downtown Lima (officially known as Cercado de Lima).

This plaza is frequented daily by many tourists who also visit the principal plaza known as the Plaza de Armas (officially named Plaza Mayor de Lima) where the presidential palace and the municipality building of Lima are located. This area is also popular to many residents of Lima who visit the plazas which are linked by a very old and well known street called Jiron de la Union. Jiron de la Union is a commercial street that spans several blocks and is closed off to vehicular traffic. Here people are free to roam as they peruse the many stores and restaurants.

Plaza San Martin has a short history in comparison to the rest of Lima, in that it was constructed in the early 1900's following the subsequent demolition of San Juan de Dios hospital as well as a railroad station. The plaza was inaugurated in July of 1921 in homage to the 100th anniversary of Peru's Independence. The statue in the center of the Plaza was the result of a competition where Spanish artist/sculptor Mariano Benlliure won with his masterpiece which depicted war hero Jose de San Martin during his travels through the Andes, hence the name of the plaza as Plaza San Martin.

The buildings that enclose the plaza were constructed in gradual order and all share the same Neocolonial design being what was at the time popular.

**Edit**  Here is an old photo of the Plaza San Martin

Here is a recent photo I took last week. This photo was taken at an urban chicken farm well within the brick and concrete confines of Lima's old city center. In the city it's not uncommon to find many people who raise livestock within their property and it's also not uncommon to hear a rooster's wake-up call at 4am along with honking horns.

The chicken plays an important role in the limeñans diet and is therefore a core ingredient in most dishes served in the restaurants and homes with seafood and fish competing alongside it.

These however are roosters in the photo and are raised for the traditional and controversial "cock fights", a sport (if you can call it that) that was brought by the Spanish during their conquest / colonialization of the Americas.

Special thanks to blogger Juancho over at Camina El Autor, for posting this video made by PBS he discovered recently.  The film is from the PBS TV show "A Moment of Luxury" hosted by Bill Stubbs, which has visited Lima to highlight some of the cities beautiful interiors of some of it's oldest buildings, along with other popular sites.  The good news is that it's in English, something not always available on this site when it comes to videos.

The video is fairly interesting for it's footage and information if you can overlook all the additional side commentary.

One of my favorite Peruvian blogs written by Vladimir Velasquez called "Una Lima Que Se Fue" or "A Lima That Once Was", has recently posted a video from the popular Peruvian TV show "A La Vuelta de La Esquina".  The video shows beautiful footage of some of Lima's most famous and oldest mansions along with some great information regarding their fascinating history.  Unfortunately the video commentary is in Spanish but the footage is well worth a view.  Enjoy!


A LA VUELTA DE LA ESQUINA - CASONAS DE LIMA 1-2
Cargado por vladimirvelasquezgonzalez. - Mira más videos de TV y películas.


A LA VUELTA DE LA ESQUINA - CASONAS DE LIMA 2-2
Cargado por vladimirvelasquezgonzalez. - Mira películas y shows de TV enteros.

These were but a few of the photos that I took during the week which I manage by lugging around my camera along with all my teaching supplies.  The fact that Lima is such a busy and active city makes it a perfect place for street photography, as each day provides something new to photograph.

 The fairly hippie man came on to the bus in an attempt to sale health food and preach the horrors of an unsanitary diet and lifestyle which, in his opinion most Limeñans have.  His approach was rather crude and somewhat offensive, all of which made it difficult for him to sell to anyone on the bus.  In the end the passengers who had grown tired of his rants insulted him until he was left with no other option but to retreat from the bus all while trying to hold onto whatever shread of dignity he had left.

 Traffic is so chaotic in the downtown area of Lima that it isn't uncommon to see transit police guiding traffic the old fashion way in spite of all the functioning traffic lights.

In the process of capturing great photos often the photographer will place himself in dangerous and compromising situations where common sense usually takes the back seat.  The more I continue to develop and improve my photography the stronger I feel a need to push myself and my work.  Each outing that I take here in Lima is another opportunity for me to evolve and at the same time I can't help but feel that this need is what will eventually lead to the lose/theft of my camera. 

Lima is a wonderful city full of life and diversity that is often unseen by those who travel here (not to mention many who have lived here all their lives), however like many large cities Lima can be a dangerous city for those who aren't careful.  Awareness is the name of the game when it comes to survival in this city that never sleeps and a shiny new DSLR can draw up a lot of attention if carelessly flaunted in the wrong neighborhood or street.  Just writing this I can't begin to tell you how many times I have barely escaped becoming another victim of the street, which was usually because I got caught up in the moment and in the desire to capture an image that is out of the ordinary.  Being aware of your surroundings is often more than enough to keep out of troublesome scenarios, but other times there are places within a city that an outsider just shouldn't venture into (a lesson I have yet to learn myself).  It's true that if you want to capture a photo that tells a strong and visually graphic story you often have to place yourself in harms way (this isn't true %100 of the time). 

When we visit a foreign city or country we often know the risks involved yet we tend to conduct our own form of risk analysis (usually one the spot) to determine whether or not the shot is worth the possible lose of our personal belongings, and physical well-being.  Many times we are able to get in, take the photo, and get out without too much trouble, but other times fate plays against us and we find ourselves in a situation that we can't bail out of.  I believe that the risk no matter where you decide to take photos will always be there and it's something inevitable that must be accepted in order to carry one. 


The buddy system doesn't just work in military squad formations, it can also be useful in urban and travel photography as well.  In certain situations the photography of a particular area is to risky or dangerous that another set of eyes is necessary to evade the several other pairs that seem to follow your every movement waiting for an opportunity to gather and strike.  I found myself in a highly risky situation not too long ago when I decided to go for a photowalk through the old forgotten district of Rímac (a district that is located just across from the city center, and separated by the Rímac river).  I was with Zdenka and we had been at the Plaza de Armas for the National Day of Pisco when we decided to go and visit Chabuca Grande and Puente Trujillo (just behind the Palacio de Gobierno).  While on the Trujillo bridge I got the idea to cross into Rímac since there was a street fair on the other side.  Once there we visited the many stands and stalls all while taking in the rustic and historic scenery of the Lima's original city center.  A district that once shined brightly now slowly wasting away in the cities ever-constant push forward into the 21st century.  As we continued to walk further along the street the itch to take photos was strong, even with Zdenka urging me not to.  A quick survey of the area confirmed that I was clear to take a fast sequence of photos (I should have taken a second look).  While walking back towards the bridge Zdenka pointed out that two separate men had be eyeballing us and in a flash decision we took refuge within a local supermarket.  Once inside we looked out at the band of thieves who had congregated in front of the only entrance (5 men in total).  Like a pack of wolves waiting for their prey to fall into their clutches we took the only action available to us and hired the assistance of an off-duty cop who was moonlighting as a security guard.  As we walked past the hungry band and into the security of a taxi cab a sigh of relief was felt by both of us as we just barely managed to escape what can only be speculated as a number of bad endings.  I can easily say that Zdenka was not happy but she managed to overlook her anger and take comfort in our successful evasion. 


While that moment still sends shivers down my spine it hasn't kept me from picking up my camera and heading out onto the streets, yet these days I try to be more aware of my surroundings. 

In Peru when people want to raise money regardless of the need, they often throw what is called an anticuchada (where the dish anticuchos are served) or a pollada (where chicken is served).  These events usually offer a plate the mentioned food at a set price in an environment that offers music and the opportunity to socialize and dance.  Beer and soda are also commonly sold, as these events are also seen as an opportunity to get together with friends and family to party. 

Yesterday Zdenka held her pollada in the local (a place that is offered to those who want to throw a party or event) a few houses down from hers.  I managed to arrive about 2pm which was just in time to assist her father with the preparation and frying of the chickens.  Thankfully most of the prep work had already been taken care of in advance so all that was really left to do was fry the chickens.  For the event Zdenka had purchased around 75 whole chickens, each of which cost S/. 14 and which she sold during her event at S/. 8 per quarter piece of chicken with sliced potatoes and hot sauce (rocoto)!  If you can manage to wrangle up a large enough group of attendees then you can make a good amount of money. 

Probably the most tiring process throughout the entire event was the job held by Zdenka's father, who was in charge of frying all the chickens!  Since one fry pan wasn't enough to take on the large task, several pots and pans, including one huge pot were enlisted.  On six separate burners, four from the stove and two from the portable stove were used in order to fry about 15 quarter pieces of chicken at a time.  Her father must have used about 20 bottles of canola oil to fry the 300 quarter pieces of chicken, a process which left the chicken completely covered in oil and grease. 

The pollada went well although it was not as successful as the anticuchada which was held about a month and a half ago.  People began purchasing beer around 5pm and the party went on until 1:30am when the event began to die down. 

For my experience with these types of fundraising events I have come to learn that one can make a good amount of money but to do so requires a lot of pre-planning and labor to make it payoff.

With the weekdays largely dedicated to work (except with the random class cancellation), the weekends are sacred to me, just like they are to anyone else who works.  Due to the required and necessary dress code of my job I am left with no option but to leave my camera at home to collect dust until I have the opportunity during the weekend to dust it off.  I love photography, it has become something more than just a hobby and just a little less than an obsession.  Everywhere I go I see potential photo opportunities where others might not, I am the strange guy who you see putting his hands together to frame a shot even though I don't have a camera.  Don't ever get me started on a conversation about photography because you might never get me to shut up.  It's no surprise then that when Saturday rolls around I waste no time in setting out into the sprawling urban jungle that is Lima.

This weekend with the family away in the States and the GF away on vacation with her family, I decided to enjoy the endless possibilities that awaited me.  As I mentioned in an earlier article, you run into some interesting people riding on the bus in Lima.  While riding the bus on Saturday heading towards Av. Aramburú in Miraflores, a blind man carrying a larger portable speaker entered the bus, in his shirt pocket he carried a microphone and an mp3 player.  At a glance it was quite obvious what his intentions were as he quickly plugged in his microphone and turned on the speaker that took up almost the entire aisle.  He quickly introduced himself and his economic situation and began to sing a popular Latin song (name escapes me at the moment), and that's when it happened.  The need to photograph this unusual moment was too much and the fear of not capturing it on film (digital of course) was to much to let go.   Fortunately for me the guy was blind (wow does that sound bad or what) so I took my photos as several fellow passengers quickly dug through their pockets for what ever spare change they could donate.  I of course also collaborated towards the man's cause since I understood his difficult position as a handicapped citizen in Peru (if your handicapped and live in the US you should be thanking GOD you don't live in Peru where the handicapped are rarely recognized which is probably why they call them "invalidos" which is Spanish for invalid, Ouch!) and for also taking his photo without any verbal permission.

There is something amazing about seeing a potential photo and mustering up the courage to photograph it.  Often times I feel that the most difficult photos are the one's that we consider to be the most intimidating.  What's worse is that a photographer's fear limits him/her from many great photographs, usually with regrets as conciliation.  

More photos to come...

While slowing sweating under the bright summer sun in what can only be described as a mobile sauna, I was pried from my heat stroke induced slumber by a loud and vivacious portly green-eyed man. The middle aged man dressed of a business casual fashion with a black suitcase hanging heavily from his shoulder, did not hesitate one second in starting his pitch. 

His dialogue echoed loudly as it traveled down the aisle of the aged bus.  His voice was deep and strong making it hard to ignore,  we were all captives to his speech (all but a few lucky souls trapped in their deep sleep) and his poetic words held our attention as we listened with anticipation.  The man strutted up and down the moving bus handing out booklets as he continued to entertain our minds and sway our wallets.

When it was all over 15 minutes of our lives had been spent giving our undivided attention to this stranger and some of us had even bought his product.  In my experience moments like this one are rare, the man who stepped on our bus was a professional in my opinion with a true gift. 

In Lima, the bus salesman is all too familiar with the citizens of the city.  They come in all sizes, age groups and sexes with one goal in mind, to make money.  If you closely examine the layout of a bus you will see that for a salesman it is the perfect playing field.  It is an environment that allows you to sell not just to one potential buyer but to several all in one performance.  It does not matter whether your selling candy or the latest novel, all you need is a little charm and a convincing sales pitch. 

Most Limeñans would consider these individuals to be an annoyance, an argument which is understandable when you take into consideration the sheer volume of salesman who board the thousands of buses operating within and around the city.  It´s that all too common story we've all heard a thousand times before, "please help me, my mother is in the hospital...blah, blah, blah!"  It´s hard to want to give out my money to someone who seems to be lying.  How can you trust someone whose story is identical to all the others you hear?  It´s not hard to see why so many commuters are cynical towards the bus salesman. 

I myself admit that I find it hard to just hand over my spare change to a man whose story sounds dodgy from the start, needless to say there have been moments where I have genuinely been convinced about an individuals needy situation and have happily handed over a few cents. 

The bus salesman is just one of the many characters of Lima´s diverse urban culture and whose daily prose should never be taken lightly.

Yesterday I was near Plaza Grau, in downtown Lima when I saw a banner that announced the upcoming celebration of Lima's 472 year since its' founding by Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro on January 18th, 1535. 

Interesting enough Lima was originally named Ciudad de Los Reyes (City of Kings), in tribute to the arrival of the three wise kings to Bethlehem.  The reason for the name was due to the date on which the name was chosen, January 6th, which is the date for the feast of the Epiphany.  With time the use of Cuidad de Los Reyes wore off and Lima adopted instead.  If you look at the picture of Lima's coat of arms you will notice the 3 crowns in the center.  Also on the coat of arms appears the symbols of Spanish King Carlos V and his mother, doña Juana.

Getting back to the announcement though, this Sunday a festival will be held in the Plaza de Armas which will include musical guest performances from Bartola, Guajaja, Julie Freundt, Los Hermanos Zañartu, as well as other recognized Peruvian artists.  The music is scheduled to start at 5pm and entrance is free to all who wish to attend.  The festival will then finish with a fireworks show that is set for midnight, 17th-18th. 

I will definately be attending and I even heard that their will be dance performances of La Marinera, so it should be quite an event.  Expect a full review of the event sometime next week.

Gold (Au for you science geeks) a precious metal whose bright lustrous shine which has symbolized wealth and value has captivated man for centuries.  A natural resource so malleable and ductile it's been used took create everything from coins to being used to plate Nintendo Wii's!

The Incas along with other Peruvian indigenous groups used gold to fashion several beautiful items which would later be the prized possessions of the Spanish Conquistadores.  Their artifacts were so articulate and ornate that they managed to travel the world. 

Today those artifacts which represent the best of several indigenous groups from Chimú to Nazca are on display in the Tupac Amaru Parlor Room within the Presidential Palace (AKA: Palacio de Gobierno, located in the Plaza de Armas in Downtown Lima).  The Exhibit which is currently on display is being presented by the Central Reserve Bank of Peru and the Hugo Cohen Gold Collection.  The exhibit is open to the public and best of all it is FREE!  Photography is allowed as long as flash is not used. 

The Exhibit showcases some of the best gold artifacts from Mr. Cohen's personal collection, what makes the exhibit even better is the location chosen.  The Presidential Palace is rarely opened to the public which makes for a great added bonus for those curious about what the palace looks like from the inside and those who love great architecture. 

If your in Lima I highly encourage you to go and visit the exhibit it is well worth it.

Here is a map below to help serve as a guide:


View Larger Map

well its that of the year again, when the weather starts getting cold out and the days are short.  Snow begins to fall and families gather at a local tree farms to pick out their Christmas Tree....WAIT A MINUTE what am I talking about I live in Peru not Oregon.  Here in Lima the weather is just starting to warm up as we enter summer, and I have spent many Christmas's here in Peru with my family.  Instead of skiing and snowboarding in the mountains we head to the beaches during the days and scour the crowded bars and discotecs at night.  In fact, I believe I have even seen Santa himself bringing gifts to all the children wearing only a t-shirt and shorts.

With Christmas only a few weeks away the citizens of Peru and Lima are busy at work preparing their shops, decorating their homes, and most importanting spending their hard earned soles, on just about everything.  That's right its a sellers market this time of year and each vendor is clocking in some serious hours as the holiday spirit (also known as the seasonal capitalistic effect) is in full swing.  In Lima, places like Comercial Centrales (large shopping developments)  are at full capacity as shoppers flood the aisles and stores in search of the quintessentail gift (preferrably one that doesn't cost too much).

One of Lima's most popular and frequented Shopping Centers is none other than El Mercado Central de Lima (Central Market of Lima), located in the center of Lima.  Here Peruvians from all over the country come to Mercado Central to purchase merchandise of all kinds to take back to their towns and cities to be sold at markedup prices.  El Mercado is also the place where thousands if not millions of Limeños and Chalacos frequent on a daily basis, and with the holiday season already underway the Mercado is seeing tremendous numbers of shoppers than normal.  The large number of shoppers is so overwhelming that certain streets in and around El Mercado are closed off to vehicles so that the shoppers can walk freely in between destinations.  At times the congestion of the foottraffic can become so overwhelming its almost clastrophobia inducing, and it creates a haven for theives so shoppers and visitors need to be on guard.  Christmas its not just for shopping its also a perfect season for crime and the theives know it.  They can always be spotted among the crowd if you stand in one spot and observe the people long enough.  They often travel in packs like wolves or hyenas just sitting and waiting for that hapless, unaware and unsuspecting victim.  Once they swoop in for the kill its usually too late because by the time the victim realizes whats happen its all over and they are left shocked look on their faces.

In El Mercado Central exsists a street or calle called Mesa Redonda (Round Table),  located near the infamous Calle Capon or Barrio Chino (Chinese Neighborhood - Chinatown) Mesa Redonda was long known for its vendors of pyrotechnics or more commonly fireworks, and not just any kind of fireworks...Illegal ones, you know the good stuff (the kind of stuff you have to travel to Washington to buy and better).  Like most things in Peru (a good example is all of the pirated products that are proliferate in Lima) that are outlawed or illegal, have often if not completely gone unaddress or unenforced by the local law.  This fact has to do with Peru's economic position as a third world country, especially according to the World Bank, which has seen organizations like PNP (the Peruvian National Police) underfunded and underpaid.  This has resulted in police who have resorted to such embarrassing acts as taking bribes instead of issuing tickets or jailing potential criminals in exchange for a few extra bucks (soles actually).  All this being said Mesa Redonda was the place to go for all your firework needs.  Unfortuantely due to overcrowed shops which used just about any space available as storage for their merchandise, the street and its stores were hard to navigate.  Add thousands of Peruvians shopping during the Christmas season and it was just a matter of time before an accident happened, and then...one day, it did.

It was the christmas season of 2001 and the streets were crowded, it was late afternoon and the roar of thousands of shoppers echoed through the tight streets, then suddenly a long firework was light.  It screeched loudly through the air and then disappeared inside the top floor of a building.  Minutes later a fire began to brew as smoke began to billow and blanket the street below, then panic as several fireworks began shooting into the air in all directions.  Other buildings began to catch fire and the people began to stampede like cattle in the streets, some climbing over parked cars and knocking over other shoppers in a frantic effort to escape.  The crowded pandemonium created a bottleneck which caused several shoppers to end up caught in the fire.  The destruction from the fire was devastating and the death toll was horrifying.  By the time the carnage was over and the flames put out nearly 300 people had died and several hundred more injured.  In response (as is common practice in Peru, since change only happens when enough people die), the city of Lima and the Republic of Peru placed heavy restrictions and bans on fireworks vowing to never allow what happened that day to ever occur again.  The tragedy marked one the largest fires in the history of Peru.

The following videos are in Spanish but they showcase the true terror that occurred that night.











Today, the city of Lima takes the Christmas season serious as they crack down (well, sortof...) on local vendors in El Mercado Central and even have the city serenazgo's patrolling the streets with their very own pyrotechnic squad that comes complete with illegal fireworks sniffing canines.  Unfortuantely the shop owners of Mercado Central continue to disobey city ordinence laws and regulations by carelessly blocking stairways in shopping centers and obstructing exits with merchandise.  The uncertainty of whether or not the past will repeat itself lies uncertain.  The saddest thing is knowning that the potential for another disaster still exists.

While searching the internet for information and photos on the old Tranvia train system I came across a website called SkyscrapperCity.com

This website has a forum that is dedicated to Lima where the users post old photos of the city. It's a great place to see the what the City of Kings used to look like before it became an over-populated megalopolis.

I have posted a few of my favorite photos from the forum so you can get an idea of what the people are posting there.

Here are some more photos
































all photos were taken from the SkyscrapperCity.com's website and I have no clue who the original photographer's are but I take no credit for the above work.