Last night was brutual in terms of taking photos of both end-of-campaign rallies. I had found out about the events at roughly noon yesterday while waiting to be transported to an English class in Lurin, Peru (which ended up being cancelled mid route). There was literally no time available to place my name of the list of journalists and photographers, which ultimately left me fighting to take photos among the crowds.
Keiko Fujimori of Fuerza 2011 held her rally in the Plaza Bolognesi of Downtown Lima at the end of Av. Colon., while Gana Peru's, Ollanta Humala returned to the "red plaza" (as it is referred to by many locals, due in part to the communist parties who have their offices located there) or Plaza Dos de Mayo, located roughly 1km from Keiko's event. After spending an hour sardined into a small combi, I disembarked at Av. Venezuela, a few blocks from where I normally get off, thanks in part to the last minute route change. At about 8:30pm I arrived at Plaza Bolognesi with my camera gear and my press pass hoping to squeeze in among the other photographers but was shot down when I ,at that moment, learned I was not on the list and therefore was denied entry along with many other journalists who found out the hard way.

Keiko's rally was already underway and felt more like a concert than a rally thanks largely to the celebrity appearances of Eva Ayllon and Hermanos Yaipen. Av. Colon was packed with supporters and curious pedestrians as the rest of the plazas five streets were closed off. It was at this point that I was cracking my skull open to try and find a solution to my dilemma (having special press priviledges and access has spoiled me), when I received a phone call from Zdenka informing me that Humala was already giving his speech in Dos de Mayo. Not wanting to waste anymore time, especially since Keiko hadn't shown yet, I began to hoof it over to the other plaza via the disable strech of Av. Alfonso Ugarte which connects the two plazas. It was a dark walk over to Dos de Mayo, one which I was partially not looking forward to, given it's reputation as a high crime and theft spot (imagine it at night!) and I was not liking the prospect of having my camera stolen. The feeling of uncertainty was intensified as I saw a couple leaving the Plaza, where a young man was doing his best to console his crying female companion who hystarically clutched her right hand while staring horrified at her bare ringer finger. It's the kind of scene that can kill any or all remain confidence in a particularly risky situation. After passing a temporarily erected metal gate I found myself in the lions den that was Plaza Dos de Mayo, a place that was swarming with throngs of people. A sea of heads and flags was all I could make out from my initial location as I dove in among the crowd, following line of people who were pushing their way through the crowds. I was at first hesitant to reveal my camera with no viable escape route but I managed to find a spot next to a few food carts where I was able to take a few shots quickly without drawing to much attention to myself. I continued to burrow my way to Ollanta's stage but soon realized that it was going to be near impossible as it became increasingly difficult to progress through the crowds. I made the most of it and took a few more photos (still not pleased with the overall situation), when Humala finished his speech, a bad time to be among the crowd. Luckily I was able to menuever my way out before the congregation gained any real momentum. Wanting a better vantage point I entered a nearby building and was granted access to the up floors, it was here that I was able to take photos of the plaza in it's entirety. The crowd began to migrate down, what was once referred to as Av. Colmena, towards Av. Abancay on the other end of Downtown Lima (Cercado). It was unbelievable to watch such a large amount of people advance in a singe direction, almost like watching cattle being herded. Just as I was getting ready to leave one of the kind old ladies pointed out a car in the distance that was heading down the street in our direction. As it got closer I was able to see the candidate Ollanta Humala standing on top of it as it slowly made its way through the people. Quickly I switched lenses and was able to capture a few decent shots.


Once Humala had left my sight I made my way out of the building and down the street following the same path of the crowd. Police dressed in full riot gear lined the streets ready to handle the unexpected, in what would eventually turn out to be a fairly controlled rally. A long walk later, and I finally found myself on the other side of Av. Colon and as I progressed the concentration of people continued to increase as elbow room went from scarce to nil. Keiko had arrived minutes before and was well underway in her passionate and compelling (at least that's how she was trying to work the crowd) final sell. Unlike Humala's presentation, Keiko had her stage full of well recognized public figures making a real spectacle of her show, as sports atheletes to ex-presidential candidates (PPK) made appearances. The biggest difficulties of the night were met here as I made my way as close to the stage as possible, eventually stopping just short of the press box some 150 meters or so from Keiko. Giving myself the all clear approval I pulled out my camera and began taking photos when I noticed a group of people forging a path through the spectators. At first it was hardly a problem but minutes later Keiko ended her speech (with confetti and fireworks) and what started out as a non-threatening group of people trying to find a way out, soon converted into an ugly stampeed like display of young and elderly pushing (practically fighting) to get the hell out of the plaza. Instead of joining them I foolishly decided to wait and hold my position (against what was likely hundreds of desperate and impatient people), and as I waited I could feel the crowd gain strength as I found it harder and harder to stand. At one point I almost lost my footing all together which could have been disasterous for me. Not wanting to wait and see what could happen I saw an opening and fled the scene, eventually making my way back to Av. Arica and to my home.



Overall I am not thrilled with the photos I took last night but it was definitely interesting to be a part of a political rally of that size and scale. Also I am grateful that I still have my camera. :)
Since working at LivinginPeru.com I have done a lot of photography of special events and Lima's nightlife but last Sunday I got my first big break when I was sent to cover the presidential debate. This was my first real assignment covering a news/political related event, and it was awesome! The event was held at the well known Marriott hotel in Miraflores just in front of Larcomar and was scheduled to begin at 8:45pm. Being new to such an event I arrived early in order to get a good spot among what I anticipated to be a heavily crowded press section. When I reached the Marriott at 4pm the streets were barricaded in a two block radius of the hotel and the press section was already teeming with a good size group of veteran photographers and cameramen who had claimed their spot and set up their gear. The press section was situated a about 25-50 meters from the hotels entrance with a blocks length of waist high metal fences and a stair step style stand for the press to position themselves for the candidates. I was totally excited about being there but at the same time felt like such a rookie that I'm sure I must have let out the stench of one as the vets all seemed to have that same look on their faces which probably shared the mental thought of "great, who the hell is this fucking noob!" To make matters even more embarrassing for myself I played the role of the guy who asks everyone 100 questions about photography and the biz, not that I really cared though since it was so interesting to hear how many of these guys got their careers started.
After waiting a few hours I met up with another co-worker and professional photographer from my job who after having just entered the hotel as part of (what I initially believed to be the more privileged journalists) a group of journalists who were going to cover the event from inside, had quickly turned around and left when she was informed of the reality of the controlled situation that had been arranged by the internal security. Apparently all the press were crammed into a "special" room which had one lousy TV that would broadcast the event, while the photographers on the inside would be given the opportunity to take a five minute photo op of the candidates before the debate and nothing more. It turned out that the best photo opportunities that night would be the ones taken outside. One after another the candidates arrived in their security detail convoys and took turns posing briefly for the press before entering the hotel. It all happened so quickly and I remember that when the walked towards the press section my body went into autopilot as I frantically took photos all while desperately trying to remain calm. Though the area was fairly well lit, thanks in part to the camera crews of various TV channels who set up these huge spotlights which had what looked like big pieces of white paper taped to them in order the soften the light, I still had to use an ISO above 1600 for my f4-5.6, 55-200mm lenses. The noise in my photos were fairly high but luckily I was able to tone it down later in Lightroom.
Once the candidates were inside Elie (the co-worker I mentioned earlier) and I went out and took photos of the supporters who had been corralled into their respective corners. Just like any sporting event the supporters of each candidate were both watching the debate while cheering and jeering as loud as they could, a spectacle that was aided by the use of live bands, air horns (damn, were there a lot of air horns!), and music. I rapped up the shooting at around 10:30pm, a little after the debate had ended, having spend six hours waiting and taking photos. I was beat but it was an amazing experience, one I look forward to repeating in the future.
Here is a photo that was taken last night while I was shooting the Tricky (former member of the group Massive Attack) concert in the upscale Miraflores nightclub, Gotica (located in Larcomar). The event lasted about an hour and a half but for me flew by in a matter of minutes.
I will post more photos of the event latter.
There were some things that I came to realize while shooting this event, one was that I realized just how difficult flash photography can be in a very poorly light and fast moving environment, another was the technical limitations of my camera in low light situations, and my overall surprisingly shocking low self-esteem while rubbing shoulders and competing for good shots with veteran professional photographers. The culmination of these three things made last nights event a real nightmarish fiasco for this photographer. More about this to come....
I may just very well be participating in this competition since it would be my first time competing in a photography event. Those of you who are in Peru and are photographers should definitely consider competing in this event. The deadline for submissions is June 15th and must be sent to Centro de la Imagen located on Av. 28 de Julio in Miraflores. If you are interested checkout the rules on their website here.
In celebration of Lima's anniversary this Sunday a group of Pisqueros (chefs, gastronomes, pisco lovers, and companies that produce the National drink of Peru, Pisco) have put together what their calling "La Semana del Chilcano" (the Week of the Chilcano) that will run from Monday of this week til the 17th. The celebration is an collaborated effort to promote the consumption of Pisco and to raise awareness about the drink Chilcano de Pisco.
The cocktail Chilcano de Pisco is a popular one among Peruvians much like Pisco Sour, although considered much simpler to prepare. While the variations to the Chilcano may vary among bartenders everywhere in Peru the core ingredients remain true.
"What is in a Chilcano de Pisco?"
The Chilcano is an alcoholic beverage that uses Pisco (which kind depends upon personal preference, Quebranta being the most commonly used). The ingredients required to make a Chilcano are simple and can be easily obtained both in Peru as well as in the US. The ingredients used consist of the following:
- Pisco Peruano (Which is the REAL PISCO, not that imitation Chilean Pisco)
- Ginger Ale
- Fresh Peruvian Limón Juice (For the US substitute with Key Limes)
- Ice
"Chilcano de Pisco Receta / Chilcano de Pisco Receipe"
For those interested here is the recipe for making Chilcanos de Pisco:
Ingredients for a Chilcano de Pisco
- Peruvian Pisco Brandy
- Lemon Juice
- Ginger Ale
Quantities for one drink:
- 2 oz Peruvian Pisco Brandy
- 1 tsp Lemon Juice
- 4 - 6 oz Ginger Ale
Blending Instructions:
- Pour the Peruvian Pisco into a highball glass filled with ice cubes
- Add a spoonful of lemon juice, then fill with ginger ale
- Serve
"Where can I find a good Chilcano de Pisco in Lima?"
One restaurant/bar that I would highly recommend for Chilcanos would be that of "El Bolivariano", located in Pueblo Libre, Lima. They sell a great Chilcano that you the patron can prepare to your personal taste as they bring a bottle of pisco accompanied by ginger ale and ice. The environment there is great and their food is excellent. On Friday and Saturday nights El Bolivariano offers music in their large dinning hall where the customers can enjoy a great drink followed by a night of great dancing.
Here is a video illustrating the Chilcano that they sell at El Bolivariano:
I should also mention the famous and very old bar and cafe "El Cordon" located in the center of Lima in the historical district, near the Plaza de Armas. There they are well known for their sandwiches and of course Chilcano de Pisco.
El Comercio (Peru's National and Oldest Newspaper) has posted a list of places offering discounts along with a detailed description of the discounts. The list is provided below:
Heladería Quattro D
Chilcano de Pisco flavored ice cream / Helado de chilcano de pisco.
Bravo Restobar
Second Chilcano half price / Segundo chilcano a mitad de precio.
Caplina
The first Chilcano for only S/. 3, the second one at S/. 6 / El primer chilcano a 3 soles; el segundo a 6 soles.
Chepita Royal
The second Chilcano is FREE!!! / El segundo chilcano es gratis.
El Cheff y el Mar
2 x 1 deal on Chilcano de Pisco / 2×1 en chilcano de pisco.
El Escondite del Gordo
For every tiradito, client recieves a courtesy Chilcano. Additional Chilcanos at 25% discount / Por cada tiradito, un chilcano de cortesía. Chilcano adicional con 25% de descuento.
El Pez Amigo
50% discount on Chilcanos / 50% descuento en chilcano.
La Vaca Loca
50% discount on Chilcanos / 50% descuento en chilcano.
Hanzo
2 x 1 on Chilcanos / 2×1 en chilcanos.
Brujas de Cachiche
2 Chilcanos for S/. 22 / Dos chilcanos por 22 soles. Además, tabla de cebiches para dos o tiradito Brujas de Cachiche para dos, con dos chilcano, por 65 soles.
Ristorante Fratello
2×1 en chilcanos de pisco Italia, Quebranta y Acholado, con piqueo de brochetas.
Trattoria dei Pratti
With purchase of Chilcano, receive a complementary antipasto / Por un chilcano, de cortesía va el antipasto.
Xcess
Chilcano de Pisco for S/. 10 and on the 13th, free Chilcanos for the ladies (until 12pm) / Chilcano de pisco a 10 soles. Y el miércoles 13, gratis para las chicas (hasta las 12 p.m.)
Cepas Restobar
Receive a Chilcano with the purchase of an appetizer / El chilcano viene con piqueo.
Pisco Bar
2×1 en chilcano de pisco.
Capitán Meléndez
2 Chilcanos for S/. 22 / Dos chilcanos por 20 soles.
Depeche Order
Second one at half price / El segundo es a mitad de precio.
La Pisquería de Don Luis
Con cada chilcano, gratis un piqueo de aceitunas o quesos.
Bar Inglés (Hotel Country Club)
Dos chilcanos por 26 soles.
Swissôtel
2×1 (Dos chilcanos y un piqueo criollo a 50 soles).
Bohemia
Dos chilcanos y piqueo de cortesía por 25 soles.
Hotel Los Delfines
Seis variedades de chilcanos con piqueo de cortesía.
*first photo taken from Living in Peru website
**Second photo taken from Ocucaje.com website
Here is a list taken from Living In Peru's article of the places that will be offering discounts for the drink this week:
| Lima | Asia | Cusco | Ica |
| Astrid y Gastón Bravo Restobar Cala Pescados Capitales Punta Sal Picas Antigua Taberna Queirolo Tanta Hanzo Fiesta Brujas de Cachiche Scena Fusión Bar Inglés del Country Club Huaringas Casandina Swissotel Caplina Costanera 700 Ristorante Fratello Trattoria dei Pratti Pisco Bar Capitán Meléndez Junius Depeche Order Quattro D El Grifo Mayta Alfresco Chepita Royal El Chef y el Mar El Pez On Lomo de Mar El Bolivariano Chala El Rincón Que No Conoces Rinconcito Arequipeño Barajas Restaurant & Lounge 550 Xcess Santos Bar Cepas Restobar El Dragón El Escondite del Gordo El Pez Amigo La Vaca Loca Aca No Más Bar La Pisquería de Don Luis | Acquavit Hotel & Casino Bubba Lounge Play Club Punta Sal Depeche Order | La Chicha Cosa Nostra Bar Cusco Inka Grill Limo Inkanto Pacha Papa Zu Lounge Bistro 470 Hotel Monasterio Andean Wings Hotel El Pisquerito | El Carmelo, Hotel y Bodega |
Getting back to the announcement though, this Sunday a festival will be held in the Plaza de Armas which will include musical guest performances from Bartola, Guajaja, Julie Freundt, Los Hermanos Zañartu, as well as other recognized Peruvian artists. The music is scheduled to start at 5pm and entrance is free to all who wish to attend. The festival will then finish with a fireworks show that is set for midnight, 17th-18th.
I will definately be attending and I even heard that their will be dance performances of La Marinera, so it should be quite an event. Expect a full review of the event sometime next week.








































